Valdez, AK 7/3-7/7 2008

Aunt Ethel Faye's car being loaded onto a tow truck after breaking down climbing Thompson Pass (which is slightly over 2600 feet).

Sea lice, which I never knew existed until Frank (Ethel's son) pulled the shrimp basket onto his boat and asked me to dunk it to rid it of the lice. Most definitely one of the most disgusting things I've ever seen. Thanks Frank.

Aunt Ethel Faye, Renae, and myself getting ready to leave Valdez, AK.

Renae holding one of her smaller Halibut fishes that she caught while in Valdez. (notice the expression, she said it was breathing on her fingers)

Renae with her 38.7 lb Ling Cod that has a face only a mother could love, the fish not Renae.

Horseshoe Tail waterfall on the highway coming into Valdez.

After getting connected with Aunt Ethel Faye (AEF, for short), Renae and I wanted to change clothes as we had been wearing the same clothes for two days. We then headed to Valdez taking the Denali Highway (about 100 miles of dirt road where Renae and I were guaranteed to see big wildlife, didn't even see a hare). Prior to hitting Denali Highway we decided to stop for lunch, now ordinarily this wouldn't be an interesting conversation point, however not with Renae and I. We stopped at the gas station and got gas and went inside to get some lunch from their little cafe' well, they didn't start serving until 12 noon and it was about 20 til. So we got back in the car and headed a couple miles up the road to another service station, well they were closed, so we got back into the car and headed to a Trading Post that had a roach coach (sorta) outside it didn't look to good and they had a Bushrat special and I was afraid to ask what that was, well back to the car to the first gas station because it was now noon and went in but the cashier said her cook called in sick, so back to the car and back to the trading post which ended up being really good food.

After all that was said and done we hit the Denali Highway which had very beautiful scenery with mountains, glaciers, wildflowers, but no wildlife. Renae was driving so I took a little nap in the back seat and AEF faded off every once in a while for a nap too. Once we reached the end of the Denali Highway we stopped at another little gas station in Paxton (i think) and had an ice cream break. Then off to Valdez on a real (kinda) highway, after buying a bumper sticker saying we survived the Denali Highway. I was driving now and I think I scared AEF a couple of times.

Our next stop would be GlenAllen, AK for supper. We tried to get a hold of Frank by cell phone to see if he left Fairbanks yet and we were finally able to and he said he was just getting ready to leave (it was about 5pm and it is about a 7 hr drive to Valdez). We ate and filled up with gas in GlenAllen (which was our most expensive gas at $5.6?, yes almost 6 dollars a gallon.

Renae drove from this point til we got to Valdez. Along the way the wildflowers along the highway were vibrant with colors, purple, light purple, yellow, pink, and white everywhere. I got a couple of pictures from the car. I kept saying how amazing the flowers were and Renae really enjoyed them, AEF said that the amazing views where yet to come. So from then on I kept asking if I was amazed yet. AEF kept saying no not yet, then she told Renae to slow down and there was Bridal Veil Water fall it was breathtaking with green grass, shrubs, and the like surrounding this surreal waterfall. AEF said that wasn't the best and we rounded the corner and there was Horseshoe Tail Waterfall (I think that is the right name, something to do with horses). It was the most beautiful waterfall I've ever seen. I took lots of photos because I was really impressed.

Now I don't remember if Thompson Pass was before or after the waterfalls but Renae and I kept laughing because it was only 2600 feet in elevation and tree line was 2300 feet and there was a ton of snow still on the pass. Into Valdez we came and parked in the Harbor Parking area to unload our stuff onto the boats. Renae and I had never slept on a boat before and that was to be our night accommodations for the next several nights. Now Frank owns two boats and we stayed on Mad Dog or Bad Dog the first night. It was a 32 foot bayliner that was broken which was why Frank didn't get started from Fairbanks until 5pm because they were putting together the transmission or something and the garage didn't order one small ring but that didn't get figured out until 5pm, anywho, it was all quite dramatic. So Renae and I settled in and decided we really stunk and needed a shower, however the showers only took tokens which had to be obtained from the quartermaster or harbormaster or someone who had the tokens, and they had gone home. So stinky as we were we hit the sack in the forward session of the boat. Now I don't know how many people experience sleeping in these forward sections other than the Navy and Coast Guard but they are quite tiny. Luckily I didn't seem to claustrophobic but had to have one leg outside my sleeping bag so I didn't feel closed in.

The next morning was the 4th of July and we were excited to go catch fish. Well AEF wasn't up yet and so we headed over to a little cafe coffee shop in the Harbor Parking lot. When we got there the person there said she was just told that she wasn't supposed to work today and so Renae got a free cup of coffee because she had no money in the register. By the time we walked back AEF was getting up and we decided to go check out the town and SHOWER cuz we stunk. But first I needed to eat breakfast, so we headed off to the Totem Inn. Breakfast was very good or I was very hungry. After eating we headed over to the laundry mat which happened to have showers. It was 4 dollars for 10 min in the shower and it was the best 4 dollars ever spent. We did laundry while we were there. Next we called to find out where Frank and his friends, Ron, Lou, and Adeline where. Frank said he thought he would be there at 10am so we decided to check out when the parade was to be and then met the bunch over at the RV park. Renae and I didn't get to talk with Ron much but Frank, Lou and Adeline are good people. Frank came up and hugged me and made me feel like family, it was great. Renae and I were overly excited to go catch fish but soon learned there is a process to be followed so we had to settle down. We went and watched the parade and visited several shops, saw the video of the earthquake and eventual destruction of old Valdez which happened in 1964 I believe (it was pretty interesting) and then hit the fishing store to get our fishing licenses. We headed back to the RV park and ate sandwiches. Frank then said it was time to go put out the shrimp baskets and we could do a little bit of fishing, yeah, Renae and I were back excited again.

We went out on the little boat (29 foot) called the Pacific Eagle. But we had to fill up with gas first, which was an experience in of itself. Then off we went into Prince William sound which is the sea I guess because it had sea lice, not ocean lice (Frank correct me if I'm wrong). All the big fishing boats were out and we had to maneuver around their fishing nets. Then we hunted for the perfect place to put the shrimp pots down. Frank and Lou put down the pots which is an interesting process and then marked the waypoint (75) so we could find them the next day. We then stopped so Renae, AEF, and I could fish. I was the first one to catch a fish, but Frank told me we had to through it back because it was an icky tasting fish, I was disappointed but got my picture taken with the fish. AEF was the next one to catch something only it was a pretty pink and purple starfish which Frank threw back. I then caught another nonkeeper, then it was time to head back in. We got back in around 7pm and had hamburgers for supper. Renae and I were exhausted and walked over to the boat around 9pm to go to bed. The next several nights we would be sleeping on the smaller boat.

The next morning we were headed out into the sound by 0830 with a boat full of at least two excited people. It took us 2 hours or so to get to where we would be fishing for the day. What a awesome day. The weather was great and Renae and I thought the fishing was great too. Of course that could be the fact that she caught 5 fish the biggest one being nearly 40 lbs and of prehistoric nature. I only caught a small halibut that we ended up putting back in the water. We spent about 9 hours out on the water it was great. We saw jelly fish (looked like peach jelly), some dolphins, sea puppies (that was what Frank called them, sea otters I think), and a seal. Of course lots of fish. I think in total all of us caught maybe 10 or 12 fish. We headed back in to bring up the shrimp pots which is where I learned about the most disgusting thing, sea lice. I had bad dreams after that and kept scratching my head just at the mention of sea lice. We only pulled in maybe 15 shrimp and some of them made back into the water after AEF got caught between the boat and the dock. That night we skinned and bagged the fish and Lou (who looks like santa claus) started the brine water to smoke some of the salmon. Renae and I didn't get to bed until about 11pm this night and were totally exhausted that we didn't even hear the rain.

The next day Adeline didn't go out with us. The day started really foggy, rainy, and windy. We had to use the radar to get through the narrows to see the other ships and the coast line. It was kinda freaky but Renae and I trusted Frank. We put down more shrimp pots and stopped a couple of times to drop a line in. Frank and Lou decided we should go further out. At this point I got what I would consider sea sick, not sure if it was from the bologna sandwich or the choppy seas but nonetheless my stomach was churning, but I didn't hurl. It took us about an hour to get where we ended up fishing. And it was a raining off and on let me tell you. We all got wet. I sat out the back of the boat with my feet up on the railing and my pole in the water until I got my first bite. I was a bit anxious or sick and reeled it in to quickly and lost the salmon. Shortly after that I got another one and lost it too, but don't fear I got the next three actually 4 but one escaped after being almost netted. Renae caught one or two of something, but overall we only caught I think maybe 5 fish that day. Lou cut his hand while cleaning a halibut and we all made a big deal of it except him. Frank kept saying Lou was bleeding on his boat, it was funny.

When we got back we ate dinner in Lou and Adeline's RV, it was a great meal. Renae and I then walked back to the boat as it was nearly 1130pm and went to bed. The next day we were up and cleaning the boat so we could all leave back to Fairbanks. AEF, Renae and I left first so we could stop and climb on Worthington Glacier. As we were headed up Thompson Pass I smelt something burning but thought it was the truck and RV in front of us. Worthington Glacier is halfway down Thompson pass and as we pulled in the car started knocking, smoking and the oil light was flashing. When we got pulled into a parking space a large billow of smoke came out from under neath the car. Well I suggested that we should call Frank because we thought they were still behind us, however, there was no cell service. AEF walked down to the road to see if she could catch them and told Renae and I to go check out the glacier. Renae and I took a few photos and then tried to figure out how to call Frank. There was a touristy shop at the glacier and so we went into ask about a phone they had one but we couldn't call long distance on it. I thought I had a couple of calling cards so I found them and Renae went down to stand with AEF. Well apparently calling cards can expire and once they expire you can't add more minutes on them, who knew. Well I started hiking down to the road and AEF and Renae were coming up. I asked if they got ahold of Frank and the said no and asked if I did, which I said no. So I went down and stood on the road for 30 min and they went up and got ahold of Frank using the lady at the booths calling card. Some menly men tried to help and said that our thermostat was stuck and poured water into the radiator reservoir. They came and picked me up on the road. And off we headed at 40 miles an hour but not for long because the car began to overheat again. So we pulled off the side of the road and refilled the reservoir. We also found a clear mountain stream and refilled our water bottles. Off we went at 40 miles an hour this time for 4 miles. This went on one more time before we stopped at a rest stop where there happened to be a group of bicyclist stopped. One came over and took off the radiator cap after it had cooled and said there was no fluid in the radiator and filling the reservoir was no good. So we asked a couple of people that we saw to call Frank when they got into cell service which Frank said he got two phone calls. We then began filling the radiator and off we went. We made it five miles or so before we had to stop again, at this time we refilled the water bottles in another stream. The next time we stopped a truck pulled over to help and they said we had a blown head gasket which we did and had oil in the radiator fluid. They also happened to have a satellite phone and was able to get ahold of Frank, which by the way was 2 hours ahead of us. It took us about 4 hours to travel 30 miles. We finally stopped for the last time and waited for Frank and a tow truck. We happened to stop at some lodge that was open and lucky for us because they served the best food. Shortly after we finished eating Frank and a tow truck showed up. Yeah Frank. We road back to Fairbanks in Franks RV. We didn't get home until 1230am. How crazy.

Last note we didn't notice many mosquito's in Valdez, but instead there were nats. Now normally nats are just a pain at times, however, these nats had canine teeth that sunk into you and left a mark bigger than any mosquito ever did. Having been back in Colorado a day now those nat bites itch more than any mosquito bite did.