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Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Denali National Park 7/1-7/3 2008

This was a view from our camp site on the second day in Denali.

Renae pretty much saying you want me to hike up to those rocks?


Pretty alpine tundra flowers.


Grizzly bear we saw from the bus going to Eielson Visitor Center.


Me in front of Denali Mountain, or Mt. McKinely.

Well what an incredible train ride. The train pulled into Denali around 1230pm and Renae and I figured out what to do next as far as getting our backpacks and such. We decided after they off loaded our stuff to go grab a bite to eat. Well apparently everyone else also had this idea. There is one eating place near the the Visitors Center and the line was probably a quarter mile long. Since we had our big backpacks Renae decided she would save a table with our packs and I would stand in line. Let me tell you there was more pushing and shoving going on in that line than at a Ozzy concert (not that I've been to an Ozzy concert, but you get my drift). Anywho the line seemed to move pretty quick and I got two sandwiches, a beer, two candy bars, and a soda for me and it cost 29 dollars, I about crapped my pants but hey what can you do, it's the only eating place around. As I was paying the cashier I waved to Renae and she took that as there was a place inside to sit so she grabbed up all the packs and headed inside (all this was going on unbeknowst to me) and when she got to me I asked what she was doing and she told me all of the above, I said no, so we headed back to the table she was sitting at and well some nasty tourist saw her get up and began heading for the table. At this point a verbal altercation ensued and Renae won the table back, Yeah.

So after that excitement we wanted to be as far away from tourist as possible so we decided to go into the backcountry on 7/1 if it was possible. We found out were we needed to go to get our backcountry passes and the bus passes into Denali. We got our bear canister and watched the safety video (which indicated that if we were overdue or lost they wouldn't come look for us unless someone reported us missing, great). We picked unit 30 for the first night and unit 26 for the second night. We waited along with all the other backpackers for the camper bus to take us into the park. While waiting we stored some of our belongings in lockers so we didn't have to carry as much into the backcountry. Also while waiting the weather cleared and the sun was shining, what a beautiful day.

The camper bus came and picked us all up. We were riding with a couple from LA, a guy from San Diego, and another guy from California. We talked about all sorts of back country experience. Along the way into the park we saw some Caribou and Dall sheep from a long distance. The camper bus dropped us off at mile marker 43 just past a wildlife closure area (wolves). The park ranger said in this area we would have to bush whack, well having never bushwhacked, Renae and I quickly understood what this meant. We were walking through hip high dwarf birch bushes that liked to grab at everything moving past them. The ranger also said to make lots of noise so not to scare a bear, so I talked at twice my normal loudness and called hey bear like I was calling a pig. I'm sure to Alaskan's this probably looked and sounded quite funny and amusing but I took it very seriously. Anywho Renae and I had ambitions to hike several miles. Well after 1 1/2 hours and only going 3/4 of a mile we decided we couldn't bushwhack anymore so we found a place that was clear of dwarf birch (very difficult to do) and set up camp. Well let me tell you this "tundra" we were walking on was like walking on a wet sponge. For each step we took we didn't know if we would sink 3 inches or not sink but we had fun. Everyone warned about the mosquito's here, well there weren't much larger than the one's back home but they are quite aggressive, mosquito's on roids. After eating we watched the sun set (so to speak) and headed off to bed. We woke up the next morning and packed up after eating and headed back to the road. Going back to the road was far easier than heading out because instead of bushwhacking back we went down to the river bed and followed it back to the road. Once up to the road we waited for the next green/white bus to come pick us up so we could head up to the Eielson visitor center at around mile marker 75. This bus driver was quite the talker and quite annoying. She had a high pitched nasally voice and stopped for every freaking wildlife spotting along the way. People wanted to stop and take pictures of Magpie's, how crazy is that, or for wildlife that even with binoculars looked like a spot. Anyway as we got closer to Denali mountain there was a Grizzly Bear near the road (actually two in separate areas) so I got pictures of a grizzly (way cool and I don't want to get any closer to the bear). When we got to Eielson we set up our cook stove and ate lunch. Took lots of pictures of the mountain for Tarra and hoped back on a West Bound bus to hike into our next unit.
The bus dropped us off at mile marker 17 and we cooked super because it took us 3.5 hours to get back down. Now in Denali the road is paved til marker 15 and then you go through the park entrance and the road begins in gravel/dirt (this is important for the next day). After eating we found the trail (by the way there are no trails in Denali you just head off) made by social hikers (tourists) and headed up to Primrose Ridge. This was also a daunting task because instead of bushwhacking we were attacked by skinny Quaker trees that liked to attach the packs and knock us backwards. Not to mention there was water and mud standing in the trail. It was fun though hiking up. The rule in the backcountry is 1/2 mile from the road and not in sight of the road. We this was pretty difficult considering there was no trees anything after 1/2 mile from the road so we kept climbing up. Now the park ranger told us that in order to not be seen from the road we would likely have to go up and over the ridge. Well after a full day we were a wee bit tired and we had already gone 1.75 miles and gained 1000 feet in elevation so I found these two huge rocks and we set up our tent on a rock surface and went to bed. Sometime after several hours of sleeping the wind picked up quite considerably and lifted the tent several times with us in it. I found this quite entertaining and amusing. At one point it was blowing so hard that the tent was blown into an angle that felt almost as if the tent were attacking us. This continued on into the next morning making breaking camp quite difficult, but the views were awesome. We could see Denali mountain very clearly and snapped lots of pictures. Anyway back to the tent, one person had to have there foot on the tent at all times in order for it not to blow away. We headed back down to the road because we were supposed to meet Aunt Ethel Faye at the train depot at 10am. Well we got to the road before 8am to catch a bus that we were told would be headed back to the Wilderness Access Center so we could turn in our canister and pick up the stuff out of the locker. Well after sitting on the side of the road for about 30 minutes and seeing all of the buses going up but none coming down we pulled out the bus schedule. Needless to say a bus wouldn't be coming by until 1025am and arrive at the train depot at 1125 am. After freaking for several minutes we decided to hoof it to the park entrance and hitch hike along the way, hoping that a bus would be at the park entrance to take us back. It was probably the fastest two miles I've ever hiked with a full pack and we did it in about 45 minutes (which I think is a world record for land speed). Of course none of the campers going out slowed down let alone picked us up, so we ended up eating dust most of the way to the park entrance. Once we got there we talked to two really nice female rangers who said a bus would be stopping by at 0945 but wouldn't leave until 10am. We figured this was better than nothing and since there was no cell service hoped that Aunt Ethel Faye was late. We talked with the ranger while we waited for the bus. The trip back in was pretty uneventful and we hooked up with Ethel.

Now Renae and I were a little confused in Denali because there were lots of areas that seemed above tree line yet we were pretty sure we were close to sea level. Apparently in Alaska tree line is anywhere from 2300 feet to 3000 feet, quite odd indeed. We had no problem with the 20 hours of daylight because of utter exhaustion. We had an absolutely fabulous time and would highly recommend it to anyone that makes there way to Alaska's interior.

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